Welcome

30/06/09
Went to Deeply Vale again tonight for a climbing session in the rain. We took Barry from work too. He's given us a whole host of excuses as to why he couldn't come in the past. So it was actually a shock to see that he was ready to go when we knocked on for him. Thing is Barry had come up with excuses when we were planning on going to the indoor climbing wall, where as this is outdoors. A different kettle of fish.

To break him in gently we picked The Crack (12m) VD again as it's a nice diagonal climb with some good hand holds. He had no harness or climbing shoes, but Vinny let him use his and I let him use my approach shoes, which have good soles. As an easy climb it is good to use as a warm up and as a bit of a confidence builder. Baz wanted to test out the rope, but also the belayer - in this case Paul. He had no issue with Paul, of course, just was new to the whole "don't worry, I've got you" thing. As he fell back on to the rope the stretch caught him off guard and he ended up back at the bottom with his arse nearly hitting the deck.  He didn't fall far, but it was a wake up call to how much elasticity there is in the rope.

He climbed slowly and carefully, straining between moves; but handled it all pretty well.  Especially so considering it was not only his first climb ever, but it was outdoors. The abseil was interesting as it took him a while before he gained the confident to lean back on the rope with straight legs. In fact at one point he looked like he was going to lose it a little, but managed to sort himself out.
In fact I think he fancied himself as being in the SAS towards the end as he zipped down; though he forgot there was ground coming towards him and ended up on the deck again.

Next up was Crack Variation (12m) HS 4a. I struggled at the first part of it and it felt more like a 4c climb. The climb eased off to more like the  grade it had been given and I really got into it.

After this we tried Central Arête (12m) VS 4c. Paul seemed to shoot up there showing off with some difficult looking moves. I wasn't particularly confident about this one and in true Matt style I had missed Paul's moves for the start of the climb and really struggled at one bit. I lost grip a couple of times and ended up swinging like a pendulum and bashed into the wall. A scrape to my elbow this time - I wound myself every where I go. I ended up giving up and coming back down. Vinny tried the same climb and Paul said he climbing the part I got stuck with slightly differently. So once Vinny got to the top Paul had another go as if to show me the error of my ways :)

Finally I had another whirl on Slab Dab (12m) VS 4c. I like this route, it's got some varied holds, which includes some deep crack holds (ooh-er) which are great for confidence - they are different than normal hold and so you employ a different techniques, but they are solid enough for you to feel secure. At the start of the climb I wasn't sure how I managed to get my leg into the hold. I couldn't work it out as the one which seemed about the right height was poor - perhaps because of the wet conditions. So instead I went for the next foot hold above, but used a heel-hook technique to gain some leverage. It worked perfectly despite the pang of cramp in my thigh. Then at the over hand I had an awkward move pulling sideways on a crack. My back twinged! I thought it was game over and I'd have to come down, but I carried on regardless. I got over the top and despite my back pains I shot up quickly. Sorting out the rope provided a welcome back rest.

Same again next week? Oh yes! and I think we've got a new interested party...

25/06/09
Sorry for being a little slack with updates, but I've had quite a few hectic weeks and have been too tired to bother with updating the blogroll.

Last night I went climbing outside for the first time and it was amazing. Much better than indoor. Climbing outdoors is actually quite different as the gritstone seemed to almost crumble meaning that smearing was tricky. My climbing technique actually improved as it meant that I had to bring my foot higher to match the hand hold, rather than relying on smearing on the hard sections.

We went climbing at a crag in Ramsbottom called Deeply Vale. Renegade Corner (12m) is a VS 4b climb and was our first. The first part was possibly the hardest. I couldn't seem to find any purchase to get around the over hang. It was a shock to the system not to have nicely shapes hand holds. What was more of a shock was how sandy the rock felt, as it would provide little traction. Free of dirt and tiny gritty dust, gritstone provides plenty of traction, but this crag was either rarely climbed or the rock was very old.

The second climb was called Slab Dab (12m) VS 4c and although was roughly at the same level I found it much harder than the first. In fact one section both my feet slipped and I lost grip with one hand leaving me dangling with just a few fingers on rock. A tennis-scream later and I'd managed to get my other hand secure and then smeared my feet up. I think that was the closest I came all night to falling off. We were top roped so I wasn't going to fall any where, but it was more about saving face. 

Finishing off the night we chose a large crack - actually called The Crack (12m) VD - running diagonally up the wall. It looked much easier than the others and it was! I felt much more confident when starting off and flew up to the top. I even climbed right over, rather than abseiling down - in fact that was the hardest part as my feet had no grip and I was trying to pull up on heather. I looked like Worzel Gummidge with twigs sticking out my hair. I can't went to go again.

05/06/09
Yesterday was a big day with an even bigger let down. Laser eye surgery is something I've wanted to do for about 2 years. I'd always been put off by technique, side effects and cost. Technique because I didn't revel in the thought of a surgery cutting my eye manually. We all have our bad days at work and I would have been concerned if the surgeon had been on the sauce the night before. My appointment was at 2:50. Initially I had to wait for around 40 minutes in the reception area with another 15 or so people. My first part of the screening process was to visit the Topographic room. I had a scan of my eye which included the thickness of my cornea.

After the tests were complete I had to sit in reception for the next part of the testing. This time it was to check my eye sight, essentially a normal eye test. This is where the problems started. I'm not sure whether the lady was an ophthalmologist or optometrist, but she went through the usual, "1, 2.... and 3, 4... 1 and 2..." flicking things over my eyes to check my vision. After the eye tests she questioned when I had my last eye test. It was about 3-4 years ago now. Immediately after telling her her face changed to an 'oh dear' expression. Basically my prescription has doubled in that time frame and she couldn't let me have the procedure until my eyes sorted themselves out.

It's fair to say that I was a bit gutted about it, in fact I'd almost say devastated. Such a long time of waiting with having it on my mind nearly every day and I then get told I can't have it is a proper kick in the mummy/daddy button. I'm going to get contact lenses - I struggle to get them in, but I will just have to force it - and see how that goes. You can order them online without having someone watch you put them in before they can let you have them - Thanks Boots! NOT.

So I'm sure it's all for the best and that I'll appreciate it even more when I finally get it done. However, I'm now concerned that I wasn't allowed to complete all the tests on the day. So should my eyes stabilise and I go back for another round of testing but then fail on a test after the eye test, then I will lose the plot.

Since all this I've started to wear contact lenses and am loving it. Not only the clarity, but the freedom is something I'm still impressed with. Being able to wear sun glasses, or go climbing without the rope pinging my specs of is amazing.

30/05/09
Today I had decided to do what I've planned on doing for ages but never got round to it, or always had an excuse lined up. Ever since I'd gone walking up there I'd always wanted to sleep over night in the Peak District. My main reason was that I love photography and all of the many books I own on the subject have most of the landscape shots taken either at dawn or dusk. When out walking in the hill getting there for dawn just isn't going to happen and staying until dusk is just a death sentence.

So, my plan of action was to get up there early afternoon, wander over to an area of the moorland that no one goes to, but also where I know of a large flat rock perfect for sleeping on. As it happens I'd just bought a new camcorder and wanted to take that up to see how it faired and was waiting for the battery to finish charging. My rucksack was heavy and with it being 45 litres in capacity was not quite big enough for all the gear I wanted to bring, which consisted of:

* First aid kit
* Sleeping mat
* Bivy bag
* Tarp, cord and tent pegs
* Spare clothes
* Stove, plus 2 pans, 1 for water for tea (and super noodles) and 1 for cooking bacon (don't ask)
* Sleeping bag
* Book (in case I got bored)
* Water bottle
* Camcorder
* Gloves (yes, it was 20+ degrees, but I use them to protect my hands from the got titanium pan)
* Food (super noodles, flapjack, and oats with dried milk for the morning)
* Map

Problem was that I couldn't actually get everything in my rucksack, especially with the hydration pack filled (it hold 3 litres). So I decided to ditch my sleeping bag in favour of a down jacket, on the premise that it was hot during the day and the heat would hold. I'd checked on MetCheck and it said 7 degrees C where I lived in the evening. Of course, I'd not taken in to account the exposed moorland and the higher altitude. My rucksack was still heavy, which was made to feel heavier as it's a mountaineering rucksack with minimal padding and I only had a t-shirt on.

So because I was waiting for the battery to charge I set off later than planned and didn't end up getting off the train in Hadfield until 5pm. I then had a long, flat, boring slog to the base of the Pennine Way. My Meindl boots are fairly stiff and consequently walking on flat hard ground is tiring. Not only that, the sun was still beating down and I had speed, speed, speed in the back of my mind. Not only had I made it to the base of the Pennine Way (5km), but I'd scampered up to the top a 400m climb in just over an hour. Not bad going with a heavy rucksack (and after a can of Stella on the train). I did, however feel nauseous, but knew it would pass.

Some odd looking character stopped and fancied a chat, but as he was grinning too much for my liking I made some excuses about my legs giving up if I didn't carry on and darted. He was the last person I would see for nearly 16 hours out there. Next up was a gentle path which was either sloppy mud or awkwardly angled rocks. After which came the gruelling section where I change from a well trodden path to the moorland proper. That was hard going. I was gagging for a brew and a sit down, but checking where the sun was I figured I had 2.5 hours to go until sun down and it was already 6:30pm. I'd approximated I would hit the camping area at 9pm, which just happened to coincide with dusk. I ended up getting thoroughly confused. My proper compass was left behind as it had been pointing to 5 different norths, so I relied on the digital compass supplied with my Suunto watch. However, it seemed to lose where north was too. In the end I used the sun and my shadow to keep the same bearing (the latter being dodgy as it was moving!).

In the end I resorted to my iPhone and Google Earth for GPS coordinates (though no map was displayed as I couldn't get a GPRS signal). I'd already typed out the GPS coordinates in to the Notes application, but as I was so tired I could only remember 4 numbers at a time. I worked out I had about 45 minutes of travel before I got near the location. Once near I got the map out to check that. I fixed a bearing and headed towards where I thought it was, only to be shocked to find that upon getting signal I'd over shot it by about 3/4km! doesn't sound much, but the tricky terrain means you only walk at 2-3kph. In the end I had to ditch my plans and choose the next suitable location. Sure enough as I was getting to maximum frustration I stumbled upon a dried stream bed. Perfect.

It took me 35 minutes to put up the tarp and sleeping map. It's strange how a lack of sugar effects the brain (I'd barely had anything to eat all day as I was busy). Once under the tarp I got a brew on and some rather unappetising super noodles. Still, packed with calories. I also had a Carlsberg to wash it all down with whilst watching the sunset..

Being shattered I got into the bivy bag ready for be wearing my down jacket (with hood up) and gloves on. It was already getting cold and I could see my breath vapour. I was still fully clothed, and had to cinch the bivy bag up around my face to avoid the cold. I nodded off, waking quite a few times during the early morning, only to wake properly shivering because my legs were freezing cold. I had the brain wave of putting my feet inside the rucksack liner then getting back into the bivy bag. All was good and I drifted off for an hour or so, only to wake even colder than before! This time, the sealed rucksack liner had trapped the vapour from my legs and feet and had condenses, wetting my sock (sounds unpleasant, right?) I couldn't warm up after that and it was 3:30am. I eventually sat up at 4:30am to get a brew on. Man I was ccccold.

After a number of warming cups of tea I got up to record the sunrise. It was beautiful with the mist rolling off the hills into the valley and the sun peaking over the horizon. Made it all seem worthwhile, kind of. After breakfast I slowly packed away wanting the sun to hurry up and rise. I was due to meet my step dad at 9:30am and it was 8am by the time I'd packed everything away. On my way I saw the rare site of two hares boxing over a female. She scarpered and they both just sat there looking at each other, not sure what to do next; the aggression had gone, and confusion developed - much like a Saturday night in Manchester.

I met my step dad at the car park where I ditched some of the over night gear and then went for a 7 hour walk with him. My feet were killing me and I had to go to a stream to cool them down. It was brilliantly cold and refreshing. So although I didn't actually take a normal camera to take pictures of the sunset/sunrise the videos with the camcorder were in HD and of great quality. Yes, it was cold and uncomfortable, but I think overall it was worth it.

16/05/09
Tonight was Gill's birthday and we had a meal at Bem Brasil. The usual rabble were there. In fact everyone was there as I was expecting to be picked up, but wires were crossed, apparently. What it all about? Well basically there is a buffet with both cold and hot foods. However, what is better, and quite astonishing, was constant stream of meat which the waiters bring over on large skewers. You get given a circular piece of card with red on one side and green on the other. As you've probably guessed, green means 'feed me' and red means 'give it a min, pal, I've got the meat sweats.' Not a bad meal for £22.

15/05/09
Had the day off today, so my sister came round and we made fish and potato wedges at mine and then had a few games on the Wii. In the evening it was a meal at Shimla Pinks for my brother's birthday. I had vegetable two somosas for starter and for mains Dhaba Murgh, which is an "exquisite Punjabi country fayre of tender piece of chicken tikka cooked with ginger, onions, coriander, fresh herbs and native spices. Consequently, producing a well-balanced dish in a rich thick sauce." The problem was that when I got to the mains I'd already tackled a poppadom or two and my mains, and was getting on being pretty full. Though the Dhaba Murgh was nice I got put off by the sheer amount of coriander seeds in the dish. Coriander is nice, both fresh and ground, but I rarely use the whole seed in a dish as it is over-powering.

After the meal it was to Sainsburys for a few beers and then everyone back to mine for a group Wii session. Wii fit is always funny when you've had a few beers!

10/05/09
Spent the afternoon at Rally School as part of my birthday. The one I went to is based in Shropshire on an old World War II airfield. It is actually still in use, though I'm not exactly sure how. I had been bought a 2 hour session, but I upgraded it to get 3 hours and consequently more laps.

The 3 hours included a briefing, 2 laps getting used to the track, 3 laps pushing it, and finally 3 laps going flat out. Of course, the first two laps you think you're billy big spuds and try to push it without knowing the layout of the track. There were a few wheel lock-ups, with a small dose of understeer thrown in to boot. Although it was tarmac based there were stretches of gravel, which parts had been doused in water and oil of sorts to assist with rear wheel slides.

My car was a Ford Focus. I'm not sure of the engine size, but would guess at 1.6 or 1.8. It was pretty powerful though. I've not driven a front-wheel drive for about 4 years, so it was a bit of a shock haven't to change my driving style. With a rear-wheel drive car if you corner fast and the backend comes out of line you either turn into it and accelerate, or you come off the gas and let the tyres bite again - though you will more likely suffer a tank slap from the latter. With an FWD car the backend goes out of line when the balance of weight is shifted forwards (and the car is turned, of course). To do this one must be aggressive with the brakes. To straighten the car simply apply power, being aware of not turning into the skid.

On the second set of laps I thought that was that and decided to push it even further than before. I tonked it round, but got clumsy towards the last part of the second last. The instructor had insisted I feed the wheel and to be honest it was tricky reverting back to how I did it when originally learning to drive. Consequently on the 3 lap of the second set I got a bit giddy with the steering; and although I wasn't about to hit anything, I still got a proper bollocking for not listening. I was a bit annoyed with myself until I found out I had another three laps to go.

These laps were better, I simply concentrated on techniques, rather than flat out. Scores were to be attributed instead of lap times, so I figured this was the best course (pardon the pun) of action. As it happens they were by far the best laps - practice makes perfect. I'd even got to grips with the hand-brake turns despite the shoulder support of the bucket seat getting in the way.

So all in all it was a very good birthday present. I'd recommend it, but the costs were a little outrageous. My upgrade cost £50, which is effectively just over £16 per lap! Each lap was just over a minute a lap. So it's good for a one off, but I wouldn't suggest it be taken up as a hobby. Not sure how Colin McRae managed to perfect his skills...

02/05/09
So this morning I'd volunteered to help out plant cotton grass on Holme Moss on behalf of Moors for the Future. We had to meet up at 10am, where we would then have a bit of a lecture on why we were there and what impact it would have on the environment, etc. In actual fact because of my step dad's work I had already heard the information before. In fact the information he was quoting was perhaps researched by the team Jonathan manages. So I just wanted to crack on, but it wasn't until about 11:30 that we started planting. I thought it was going to be seeds, but instead we had small clumps of the grass and a dibber to work with - seeds don't survive very well in the acidic peat.

Once I'd finished my tray of 60 clumps I went to get another - which there were no spares. I then had to get the spares from a bag and load them in to the tray. I was ready to get on with the next batch, but the decision was made to break for lunch.

After lunch I carried on planting, finishing my tray quickly ready for another one. I grabbed two for Jonathan and I and continued. And that was that, we were done by 2pm. Two things about the day stuck in my mind. Firstly the person who organised it seemed to be in a mood the entire time. If I'd organised it and people had volunteered a Saturday out of their time I would at least appear grateful. Secondly, it was interesting to hear how the spin from Moors for the Future has changed over the last 6-8 years. Initially planting was done because the moors were "areas of natural beauty which needed conserving." Now it is "important to global warming to restore to ensure vast amounts of carbon isn't released into the atmosphere."

Despite planting as quick as possible and consequently getting through more than anyone else I felt I hadn't done enough to work off the bacon butty I'd had for lunch. Jonathan suggested a ridge walk which had been recommended to us by the park ranger. Half way through the walk I had a small amount of chocolate and shortly afterwards I felt as sick as a dog. I actually stopped three times thinking that it was coming up, I just dry heaved and dribbled (nice, I know). I finished the walk and I was dropped off, but it wasn't until I looked in the mirror that I realised the sun had done its stuff. So part of the sickness was due to it being my first bit of sugar in 1.5 months, but mainly because of heatstroke. Doh!

In the evening the old queen had booked a meal at a restaurant close to her. I got picked up by my brother so I could have a few (a lot of) drinks. Presents were brought down and quickly opened. New bed sheets, 18 bog rolls (bit of a joke from my sister), Mountain Equipment duffle bag, an Ice Climbing wall voucher, and the main present; a rally car session! It's this Sunday, so I've not got long to wait.

The meal was very good, as was the last time I went to this same restaurant. Meals are expensive, but then you get what you pay for. I had a surprise profiterole dessert with a candle in the top. Very sweet; both the sentiment and the taste.

01/05/09
Apparently I was a little loud towards the end of the night. Saying some funny, but slightly close-to-the-bone comments. Hah, like I care!? I got some tortillas and chilli and was apparently moving the bowl of chilli in front of a vegetarian saying "Go on, have a bit of lovely meat, go on..." whilst my boss glared at me. Was a good night, even though it ended at around 11. I was pretty drunk at the end of the night, which simply isn't like me.

I don't feel too bad considering, perhaps I'm still drunk. I'm glad I walk to work rather than risk driving in. I think PC plod would have had a thing or two to say otherwise.